SNOWBOARD
Remove the attachmentsand clean the topsheet (the “top” part) well. All you need is a little paper towel and a few drops of alcohol. Remember before disassembling the bindings to mark the angles, pitch and center of the attack.
With your fingers, check the condition of the edges. If you don’t find any smudges, pass the “diamond” lightly. If they have been marked by stones or “irons”, pass file and diamond for finishing. In case of “destroyed” foils, it is better to contact some specialized laboratory.
Now comes the part of the insolethat tends to be dirty and dry, unless during the winter you have had an obsessive care of your “baby”, in this case you certainly do not need to read what we wrote. There are those who recommend cleaning the base with solvents, which I don’t like, because it “dries” it a little too much. Much better to wax and then spatula with a yellow or in any case a soft wax for hot snow. The wax in this case opens the pores of the base. Waxing is a very important operation because it allows the snare to slide excellently on the snow and to protect the porous materials that compose it from dirt and wear. The wax is absorbed by the pores of the base, thus ensuring protection and glide. Once all the wax has been well troweled away from the base, it would be advisable to pass a brass brush to remove any residue. Finally, wipe the paper to prepare the base for the next waxing. At this point, having cleaned the base of dirt well, you can proceed to make a new waxing, not to be troweled, which will serve as protection during summer hibernation.
Turn the board over, taking care to put a layer of paper between the base and the vices or suction cups so as not to dirty the base again, reassemble the bindings paying attention to angles and pitch, at this point I usually unscrew the screws a little so as not to leave them under tension for months, putting a paper tape with the words “be careful tighten the screws!”.
Don’t forget to check the ribsand screwsthat hold the bindings together, because in case you replace a few parts, you will now have plenty of time to buy them. Final part before putting the “baby” to sleep in a sno bag, give the paper one last pass on the topsheet. Now you can kiss it and let it rest for a while.
ATTENTION! don’t put the “baby” to rest in a super humid cellar, you wouldn’t sleep well there either” you would wake up full of rust.
BOOTS
Remove the shoe and let it dry well together with the shell, otherwise in a few months you risk finding new “fragrant inhabitants” in your precious boots. Dry shell and liner, clean with normal detergents. If the boots are made of leather, just clean them by pouring equal parts of milk and water on a cloth. Check again that everything is dry and slip the liner into the shell. It is now very important to check with one hand that the shoe and the insole do not make any creases! Now you can tighten the laces or the BOA of your boots a little, making sure that the tongue is not crossed or badly placed, otherwise you will curse the world as soon as you put them back on after hibernation. If you want to finish the job with a nice 10 and praise, before putting your precious boots back in the box, see if it is appropriate to “grease” them or do other similar maintenance. I used to spray water repellent spray, but then I found out that the effect doesn’t last more than a week.
GLOVES AND MASK
Give your glovesa good wash before putting them back in the drawer if you don’t want to be chased on the track by the NAS carabinieri, on your first seasonal outing.
For the goggles, just protect the lenses well, to avoid being convinced at the next outing, that you are on a foggy day, while your friends arm themselves with sunscreen protection 50.
For the Family 6punto9,
Gigi